Ruggeri's was a landmark St. Louis Restaurant located on The Hill.  Earl and Barbara would take the kids there for special occasions.  I got to go with Nan just once just before it closed in the mid-seventies (I'm sure Nan's parents treated us).  The cumberbunded and starched-shirted waiters all looked as though they'd worked there since WWII.  For a small-town boy from Iowa, it was like living a Damon Runyon story.  We found a 1945 Ruggeri's Menu while cleaning out 312 Spoede over Labor Day (pictures at: http://johnandnan.benjerin.com/Photos/Labor_Day_2007/index.htm).  It presented an interesting view of the times.

There were several reminders that there was a war on and that people were expected to make sacrifices.

"All prices listed are our ceiling prices unless otherwise indicated, in which case, they are below ceiling prices.  By O.P.A (Office of Price Administration) regulation, our ceilings are our highest prices from April 4th to April 10th, 1943.  Records of these prices are available for your inspection."

"Keep 'em flying."

"Buy more War bonds and stamps."

"Due to War Time Restrictions we are striving to help our Government in conserving meats for our Armed Forces--Please note that we have added additional Sea Food and Italian Dishes."

Aside from the wartime reminders, it was interesting to note what people were eating those days.

Cold Tongue Sandwich (20¢)

Combination Sandwich (35¢) Combination of what?  It doesn't say.

Frog Leg Sandwich (90¢)

Imported Sardine Sandwich (50¢)

Eight kinds of cheese sandwiches!  Swiss, Brick, Pimento, American, Roquefort, Liederkranz (now an "extinct cheese" because the bacterial culture was corrupted and lost in 1985), Camembert, and Cheese Soufflé for between 20¢ and 40¢.

Vegetable Plate with Poached Egg (75¢)

For dessert there was Parmeggiano, Philadelphia Cream Cheese with Currant Jelly, American Cheese, Camembert, Swiss, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, and Liederkranz along with Ice Cream, Spumoni, Zabaglione, and "Pies in Season."

The Entrees were notable because there were no Italian dishes included, just good old American fare, such as Charcoal Broiled Milkfed Chicken served with a Rasher of Bacon ($1.25) and Braised Tid Bits O'Beef (also $1.25).  The Italian dishes were in two separate categories, Special Italian Dinners (no pasta) and Special Italian Dishes (pasta).  The only unusual items I noticed in this section were Spaghetti with Chicken Livers (85¢), Spaghetti a la Tuna (also 85¢), and Chili-Mac (35¢).  A side-bar touted "Spaghetti with Bottle of Wine" for $1.

Appetizers were mostly what we would think of today as garnishes or condiments: Pickles, Raw Bermuda Onions, Celery, Celery and Olives, Green Olives, Ripe Olives, Radishes, Green Onions, and Sliced Tomatoes and ranged between 15 and 50 cents.

Seafood Specials included both Jumbo and Medium Frog Legs for $1.50 and $1.25 respectively.

Prices are always interesting when you look at menus from earlier eras.  I Googled a dollar value calculator and found one that says $1.00 in 2006 had about the same buying power as $.09 in 1945 so it's not that everything was dirt cheap back then.  But the values were still a little skewed by today's standards.  For instance, you could get the "Special Seafood Platter: One-half Lobster, Fried Oysters, Scallops, Shrimps, Filet of Sole, Tarter Sauce, Potatoes and Salad" for $1.50 ($16.67 in 2006 dollars, a hell of a good deal today).  The current St. Louis Fish Market "Catch Combo: Chilean Seabass & Atlantic Salmon" costs $28.  But apparently spending 50¢ ($5.56 in 2006 dollars) for the Celery and Olives appetizer was considered reasonable.  I'd need to get a whole lotta celery and olives to make that look cost-effective.

Now, to find me a cold tongue sandwich with Liederkranz.

- Poppa